This weekend saw more work on the 110, (oddly enough, it’s my obsession at the moment and I think it has to be exactly that in order for it to get a wriggle on).  First up, after taking the advice from Craig (Vegie) in his comments and using Turpentine to remove the sound deadening residue and thus completing the passenger side, it was onto the driver’s side.  Which was completed in two simple steps.




The staining on the floor is just that, there appears to be no rust of any concern and a quick cut/decent clean should see those rust stains removed and an entirely clean floorpan.  Stoked.

The subsequent day lead me the point of no return.  Arch removal for flare fitment.

Measure for removal, Grinder awaits.

Top radius cut.

No going back now, with this done I could have drilled out the spot welds holding the outer skin to the inner arch steel but I decided I couldn’t be bothered to do that and I took to the lip edge with the grinder instead…

One layer down...

It gives a good idea of just how much higher the arch line is on a C110 when you put flares on.

Oh mai, that's hai!

This leaves the inner arch to be cut off and then sliced and bent which will (eventually) be welded back up to the outer skin once more.

Slice 'n Dice

I couldn’t quite get the grinder in far enough with the wheel on at this point so it came time to jack and remove and further the slices before bending them upwards to meet the outer arch;

Tap tap tap

...tap tap tap

Which then meant…. WHEEL FITMENT TIME!

IRS Sag, Obvious

Back on Terra Firma

with Flare in place.

Needs moar width!

It was at this point that some more measurements were taken.  In order to fill outwards to the flare I need at least another inch, getting underneath the car there is a metric fuckload of space to be filled.  My calculations put me at safely being able to fit an 11.5″ wide rear wheel.  Though I think 10-11″ would be fine by me as long as the offset of the wheels is fine.  Although many do not agree, these 14″s are completely lost inside the massive arches.  It would look wrong with anything smaller than a 15, which is why I’ll be trying to get 16′s unless some 15′s come up cheap in the right size.

While I was measuring such things it would be silly to not do the fronts at the same time.  I recall when I first sat the wheels on the front they appeared to fit quite nicely.  Though once the flares are on, they’re also sitting slightly shy of where they should…

Un-cut Arch.

High Roller!

There’s no engine in the bay, that’s why the front looks so jacked.  The bottom edge of the flare sits level with the metal of the fender itself, though despite this, due to the size of wheel that can be fitted I’ll still have to remove said metal.

Again with the space!

Fronts work out at needing at least another inch overall.  Though with some camber plates another inch again as long as the offset was correct.  So either 8.5″ or 9″ for the front.

Wheels will be pricey though on the plus side for you reading chaps when I do get some, these XR4′s will be up for grabs.  Having said that, they weren’t cheap for me to buy so they won’t be cheap for you either (though still cheaper than you’d pay for them from japamania off trademe)



  • vegie says:

    ohhh, shiny xr4′s. hmmmm i wonder if they would fit my 610….

    told you turps is the ducks nuts!
    your a far braver man than me with the angle grinder too! looking good…

  • banpei says:

    Nice! :)
    Now you definitely need bigger and wider wheels! ;)

  • kyteler says:

    banpei; Indeed. I’ve being doing some calculations, my new problem is that 16′s don’t come in a wide enough form. Largest is 9.5″ Still, I’ll double check my offsets, it’s likely they’ll fit outward fine, they just wont be making full use of the inside of the arch.

  • kyteler says:

    Vegie; Yeah man, using the turps reminded me of my car grooming days, I used to use it in a spray bottle to remove tar from paintwork. Worked the exact same way. I guarantee the XR-4′s will fit your 610, they’ll even be a good size for it, given the difference in overall size between a 610 and a C110. You’ll have to finish it and drive down to try them on! :P Mind you. Your RS-Watanabe’s are pretty sweet already.

  • Kyusha Kai says:

    DOPE! what’s the specs on those ‘champs?

  • kyteler says:

    14×7.5″ -13 Offset.

    They’re sweet, but would be better suited to something slightly smaller than the C110, like an S30 or a 510/610/810

  • kyteler says:

    Yeah, not really that keen on a 6speed, especially at that price and with it being modified to fit into a 1600, it’s likely closer to the length of a short-box, which basically means it’s a pain in the ass, I’d have to modify the driveshaft, etc. Not really into that. Will just keep my peepers out for another Standard length 5-speed.

  • Raizer says:

    It should be the same length as S13/14/15 SR20 gear boxes if that means anything, I’m just not sure if the Altezzas have the shifter in the same spot as the S15 6 speeds.
    Would be a lush ratio set behind a big L6 lol
    /yeah pricey pain in the ass

  • kyteler says:

    Doesn’t look as long as a Silvia box, though the shifter is set further back, there’s also mounts etc. to think about. The regular 5spd from an S130/C31/32 etc. bolts straight in so it’s FAR less hassle.

  • Raizer says:

    S15 6 speeds and Altezza’s have the same gearbox (along with MX5s aswell) though, but yeah they probably have different shifter positions along with the different bellhousing castings.

    meh for the price 5 speed ftw lol

  • kyteler says:

    Fuck yeah.

    In other news, I had an idea for a watermark for you bro. I’ll scribble something up and pass it on for you at some stage to contemplate it for 2 seconds before discarding. ;)

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